Visits to "I" lands - 2014 For our winter
escape in 2014 we decided to include visits to Ireland,
Iceland and the Cook Islands
- as well as stops in the good old USA.
The Ireland visit
was 2 weeks of golfing and touring with a couple of good friends. We
stayed in nice hotels which included excellent breakfasts, saw castles
and quaint villages, played some beautiful golf courses (albeit not
overly well), and enjoyed many excellent restaurant dinners. You may
have heard it said that "nobody goes to Ireland for the food", but we
would beg to differ. It was far from being just boiled
potatoes and Irish stew.
The Cook Islands
(Rarotonga) was a couple of weeks of relaxation in a little beachhouse
- and somehow sunset always seemed to happen at gin-o'clock!
This posting is
mostly dedicated to the 2 weeks we spent circling Iceland in a
campervan caravan with brother and sister-in-law Jim and Mary Ellen. We
met in a B&B near Keflavik airport and picked up our rental
vans the next morning. We have had campervan holidays in the past - but
this is by far the biggest vehicle we have used. It was quite
comfortable - and well suited to the wide open spaces of Iceland. We
easily found scenic overlooks or other nice parking spots for our
overnight stays. This was a first campervan experience for Jim and ME -
but Jim soon "ramped up" on the skills required to have a level bed.
(By the way - John supplied the words and Jill, Jim and ME took all the
photos. Click on any image for a bigger view.)
Our
first stop was at at Þingvellir national park. This is a wild and wonderful
place where the mid-Atlantic ridge rises above the sea and the earth is
splitting as North America and Europe drift further apart. It also
marks the historic meeting place where Icelanders have practiced their
form of democracy for over 1000 years. We had a lovely ramble down the
wildflower bordered path to the waterfall and dinner in the parking lot. The
next day we continued the Iceland "Golden Circle" with visits to the
Geysir thermal area and the very impressive Gullfoss waterfall. Our 2 week
stay was in late June and early July - so while the sun did get below
the horizon in the middle of the night, it never got dark.
Unfortunately, that didn't mean that we did a lot of sitting in the
sun. It seems daft to complain about the cold when you visit a place
called "ice land", but it was colder than we had expected. We thought that
we might get temps between 10-15C (in the 50s F) but we often had daily
single digit highs (in the 40s F). The weather never really inhibited
our activities (though the rain parkas were well used), but it meant
that we couldn't sit outside in the evenings and enjoy the locations
where we parked. This is unfortunate because one of the charms of a
campervan holiday is the ability to find a nice spot to enjoy. We
mostly found nice spots, but had to enjoy them from inside the vans.
Iceland is an impressively wild and rugged place, but that doesn't stop
the locals from doing their best to make a living from the land. Two
thirds of them live in Reykjavik, but it never seems too long before you pass another farm dwelling.
More evidence of the hardy local nature came from the wildflowers. They were abundant and widespread.
Then, or course, there are the birds. Many of them are not local -
just summer visitors making the most of the great nesting and feeding
conditions. Puffins are near the top of everyone's list of favorites,
and 80% of the world's puffins nest in Iceland. We saw many different
species in many different places. Among the notables was the arctic
tern, which seemed to be nesting in large numbers in every vacant
field. They were beautiful to watch, especially when diving to catch a
feed, but fierce in defense of their nests.
Iceland is famous for volcanoes and glaciers. In fact, during our trip the
online weather page contained warnings of possible floods due to
volcanic activity under an ice cap. Luckily we had no problems of this
nature - and didn't get really close to either one due to the need to
travel on rough roads to reach them, and our unwillingness to do this
in the vans. We did however visit places where the glacial outflows
float to the sea - giving us a day at the beach Iceland style.
Our closest encounter with volcanic activities was at Mývatn in the
northeast. This large lake is surrounded by signs of recent eruptions,
including craters, fumaroles and boiling mud.
Icelandic for Iceland is Island - which is easy enough - but Icelandic
is a notoriously hard language to learn and speak, and none
or us got very far with twisting our tongues to make the required
sounds. Luckily Thank You is a simple Taak and most Icelanders speak
very good English (and occasionally someone would understand my attempt
at "no worries" - "ekk ert maul"). But, here are a couple of volcano
names for you to try (including the one that shut down European skies
in 2010), and some photos that didn't make it into any other
grouping.
One of the highlight days came towards the end. We had made it back to
the east coast and the sun had reappeared. We made the most of a
cloudless, windless day to take a boat trip out into Breiðafjörður bay from the town of Stykkishólmur on the Snæfellsnes penninsula (like I said about Icelandic...) According
the Icelandic lore there are 2 things that can not be counted - the
number of stars in the sky and the number of islands in this bay. The
trip featured nesting birds, weird geology, sea vistas and "Viking
sushi" when they dragged up some fresh scallops and urchins - they were
delicious (the scallops at least). We then retired to a camp in the
lava flows to enjoy the evening.
There are many more stories that could be told, and pictures that could
be shared - but I expect that you are probably bored by now and
wouldn't be interested to see and hear about World Cup semi-finals at
a sod roofed hut filled with Germans, or near escapes from off road
adventures at the expense of some burning of the clutch, or a visit to
the Icelandic accordion orchestra festival, or green slimy
hot baths, or striking attractive blue eyed blonds, or trying to spy on
an operational whaling station, or excellent lobster bisque,
or Jill dressed as a Viking warrior, would you? So
that's all from us!
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