Twenty Twenty-Four
October
- Christchurch
On October 2 I landed in Christchurch after a 36 hour
journey including a night in a pod in Dubai airport. I picked up
my van and slept for 14 hours, then went to my storage locker to
sort stuff. I sat on the floor amid piles of my worldly
possessions feeling entirely discombobulated. The transition back
to a "homeless pensioner" did not come easily. I had a very long
list of ToDos and got stuck in, as I slowly adjusted to this new
situation. I went out of town to local retreats for the weekend,
and then made a week-long campervan tour to Marlborough and Nelson
to visit friends and continue my adjustment. Happily, after
returning, I got involved with the many Antarctic season events,
re-connected with many friends, played a bit of golf and Bridge,
and started would on some projects for the Ross Sea voyages. After
7 weeks I was very well adjusted - but it was time to head out for
the southern summer season.
The scenes from this period include the terns and crashing
surf at Ohau Point near Kaikoura and Jill's flock including new
lambs
November
- Tasmania and the Sub-Antarctic
My first voyage of the southern season started in Hobart,
Tasmania on November 22, so I traveled a week early and had a few
days to look around. In Hobart I was able to visit the replica of
Mawson's hut at Commonwealth Bay and the excellent Tasmanian
Museum, as well as catch up with some old and new friends. I made
short trips to visit the historic penal colony at Port Arthur. While I normally like to try to
see wildlife in the wild, there was no chance of that on this
short visit, so I went to the Bonorong Wildlife Sanctuary to see Tasmanian
Devils and more.
Some scenes from this period: Port Arthur - views from the
sea and through a cottage window, the penitentiary, the asylum,
the watch tower, a cell from the Separate Prison, crumbling
bricks, the statue to commemorate the "Dog line" that was the
final barrier for the prisoners.Bonorong - Tasmanian Devils x 2,
Echidna, Wombat, Tawny Frogmouth, Kangaroo and Kangaroo video
On that first voyage - Galapagos of the Southern
Ocean - I took very few photos. The reasons are varied. As
wonderful as they are, I had visited these places (Macquarie Is.,
Campbell Is., Auckland Is., Snares) many times before - and in
better conditions as we got less-than-ideal weather. Despite the
lack of photos, the voyage was excellent and I relished the
camera-free enjoyment.
December
- Sub-Antarctic and Christchurch
December 1 was toward the end of the voyage with a very
busy changeover day in Bluff on December 3 to start the second
voyage - Birding Down Under (BDU). Again the weather and my
dis-inclination led to few images captured, until we had
absolutely perfect conditions for our landing at Sandy Bay,
Macquarie Island - one of the most special of all the special
sub-Antarctic destinations. I hadn't been there so early in the
season so the newly weaned Elephant Seal pups were a highlight.
They are fattened into little sausages (weaners/wieners) in just 3
weeks before being abandoned by their mums. They lie around on the
beach, or approach boldly to try to suckle, with the biggest, most
pathetic, yet endearing, eyes. Somehow they manage to steal the
show from the King and Royal Penguins - no mean feat.
Some scenes from Sandy Bay: Royal penguin; King
penguins, King back plumage detail, King chick, Weaners at play,
Are you my mother?
Birding Down Under returned to Buff on December 19 and I
returned to Christchurch. The challenging sea and wind conditions
continued for this voyage - including a new personal record for
windiest-place-I've-ever-been at the top of the boardwalk on
Campbell Island where I was lifted completely off my feet and
thrown down. Luckily no damage done. The special things about BDU
is that it visits 2 very remote and seldom visited island groups -
the Antipodes and the Bounty Islands. They are quite different -
but both are rugged with no landings allowed. In both cases the
Zodiac cruises were superb. I was driving at the Antipodes but
still managed a few images of the Erect Crested Penguins from the
bobbing Zodiac. I must say that on this voyage I started to have
severe envy for the skill and the equipment of the professional
photographers. I hope that you will look at the slideshow and trip
log to see the difference. Some is their skill, no doubt, but the
huge lenses, high mega-pixel count, and fast processing in new
cameras makes a huge difference too.
To me the Bounty Islands are among the most remarkable
wildlife hotspots on earth. Captain Bligh, when he discovered them
in 1788 (before the mutiny) didn't approach closer than "3
leagues" about 15 km. They are just barren granite rocks that are
swept by the seas so regularly that there is virtually no
vegetation other than kelp. Every inch of rock is covered by
seals, penguins, albatross and more. Just amazing.
Some scenes from the Antipodes and Bounty Islands: From
the Antipodes: Erect Crested Penguins x 2; From the Bounty
Islands: Salvins albatross soaring over the rocks x 2, in flight,
taking flight; Erect Crested Penguin
Use these links for the Galapagos of the Southern Ocean Log and Slideshow and these for Birding Down Under
Log and Slideshow
I have the remainder of 2024 in Christchurch before
heading south again in 2025. The holidays will be with old friends
and Jill.
As anticipated at the start of the year, it has been
action packed. I'm not sure that I have adhered to my intention to
include more reflection - but hopefully I (and you) will be able
to get a feeling for this year of voyages and reunions when I look
back. Certainly I never forget how fortunate and privileged I am
to have been able to see and do all that I have seen and done. I
try not to take it for granted, and, to the best of my ability, to
share my knowledge and enthusiasm with my fellow adventurers.
Wishing all who read this the time, energy, and inclination to
open yourself to new experiences, and to allow the wonders of our
world, large and small, to invoke true wonder in you. If you have
the opportunity, then keep looking, learning, and sharing every
day.
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